advice on this partin tool as you can see it burns on some wood like dry walnut it is 5" long to the handle and is .35 thich sawzall blade in a former life is the shape of the cutting area correct
I'm no expert and I don't know what kind of steel sawzall blades are make from. But I'd be a little concerned about it breaking off and imbedding itself in something. Also, most commercially produced parting tools are ground with either a diamond shape or a taper so that the actual cutting edge is slightly wider than the rest of the tool. That way they don't creat as much friction from rubbing the wood and create less heat. If it gets too hot it's going to remove the temper and hardness from the cutting edge. But the shape looks right.
wheels, I use a straight bladed parting tool also. I imagine the problem you're having is after getting about an inch or so into the wood, it starts to burn. Try parting in a bit and then relieve the parted area by half, making the cut wider than your initial part, part more, then relieve a bit more. What is happening is the areas behind the cut close up a bit due to friction heat, bind slightly on the tool and then start to burn. On boxes, part in about an inch or so to set the cut and then use a bandsaw or coping saw to finish the job. I don't like diamond parting tools, so this is how I have learned to do it.
wheels, grind the top and bottom edges thinner than the center along the whole length, so the blade is thicker in line with the cutting point. Then polish the whole blade, or at least the part that is used. Round over and polish the bottom edge so it doesn't cut into the toolrest. If you look at a factory-made parting tool, it's a long diamond shape--widest at the cutting edge, angling off from the middle to each edge (top and bottom). It's easier to grind the sides to a curve instead of the factory made way (diamond shape)--either way will work good.