FIRST BOWL

SHOULD HAVE SANDED LONGER

Photo Details

JR Horsley

Registered: October 2006
Location: hardinsburg, ky
Posts: 175

0

Date: Mon October 9, 2006
Views: 1,016
Keywords: first bowl

Comments

TomTunget

Tom Tunget

Congrats HOSS. Looks like your on your way!

#1 Mon October 9, 2006 4:07pm

Rev. Doug Miller

Rev. Doug Miller

Hoss, glad to have you join us here. You are doing a great job on your first set of projects. If I may, let me give you a couple of instructional points. First is with your pictures. Take a look at the plater edge pic. You can see there there is some light and the detail of the plater's edge is crisp and clear. The other pics are pretty dark, detail is lost and the piece is a little hard to see. Had the wood been a light colored species it may have made a difference. You might want to try a lighter colored background. White, grey, and cream are some of the best colors to use as background colors for wood objects.

Second, most of your pieces have flat areas in the turning. If you can eleminate the flat areas, keeping a nice curve flowing throughout the piece, I believe you find that the piece will be much more appealing. There are exceptions of course, but generally speaking, a curve is much more pleasant to the eye than a straight line.

Third is one that you mention here, you need to spend more time sanding. If you need to, start with 60 grit and work your way up. Don't go on to the next grit until the marks from the previous step are gone.

That's enough for now. You're doing well. Keep up the practice and share them with us. We'll try to help you out anyway we can. 8)

#2 Mon October 9, 2006 5:28pm

jgo317

Hey, Rev, you bully! Just kidding. I think that you could eliminate some of the marks with a couple of other things as well. First, tool position. I learned an invaluable lesson on holding my gouge to get marks out just a month or so ago. It's super easy and helped me bypass my lower grits so I could start with a 180 or 220 on the profile. It's a matter of holding the gouge edge perpindicular to the lathe axis and slowly making a planing cut. I would give a link to the pic I saw, but I just went to that spot and it's now gone. Grybeard on here saw it too and also got a lot from it.
Another thing (I just learned this this past weekend) is to take a fresh piece of sandpaper and first run the grit on the edge of you lathe bed kind of like holding a rag when polishing shoes. Sandpaper will have some pieces of grit that are higher than the rest that will leave a very definitive line unless knocked off. Especially cheap sandpaper. You will think that you are trying to remove a line from the previous grit when you are actually producing the line with your current grit. If you are doing that you will spend a lot of time sanding until the paper is of uniform consistency and by then it may be clogged or worn out. Or you may just be discouraged and say "oh well, that's good enough" and regret the finish later (I know this from experience).
By the way, I love the work you've done. Keep it up.

#3 Mon October 9, 2006 6:14pm

JR Horsley

REV YOU SHOULD HAVE TOLD ME THAT STUFF WHEN I WAS TURNING IT ON YOUR LATHE....SO MUCH FOR GOOD FREE INSTRUCTIONS..JUST KIDDING AT THIS POINT ALL INSTRUCTIONS, EVEN LATE ONES, ARE WELCOME.

#4 Mon October 9, 2006 7:12pm

JimQuarles

Looks like you have made a good start with this addiction. FYI, Typing all in capital letters in a forum or e-mail is the equivilant of shouting.

#5 Mon October 9, 2006 10:46pm

grybeard

Hi hoss!
outstanding work! very nice indeed!
Rev is right thou...and yes he criticed mine very well on the first try also ..but it also made me look at things differently ...learn the flow of curves...they make the piece more appealing to the eye than straight lines..makes a big difference!

What jgo is talking about is side shear scraping to lay down and smooth the grain ...it really helps alot once u get it down..has to be done with a bowl gouge.
It works really well with a bowl gouge that has the swept back wing grind on the outside of the bowl ..I havent mastered it on the inside yet...basically what it is ..with a sharp gouge you lay the bottom edge almost straight up and down on the bowl going the way the grain lays...and lightly scrape with the bottom edge only...dont let the top touch..you will get fine string like fiber coming off the gouge..thats when u know its cutting right..it creates a fine smooth finish that u almost dont have to sand.
Best way I have found to do it is to (I have a long handle)rest the end of the handle on my leg and gently lay the edge of the gouge to the wood ..I rotate it inward until I get the cut started and dont stop until I get to the end.

Bob

#6 Tue October 10, 2006 12:12am

Rev. Doug Miller

Rev. Doug Miller

Hey guys, Hoss is one of my mentorees. We all know that turning is a tough thing to get right. Most of us work our entire lives trying to get that one really nice piece that we call "the one." Anyway, I did give most of this information. It's just so hard to remember it all when you're in the mement of having just turned a new piece. Besides, I only saw athe candle stick and this bowl form. You finished both of them up the road. I didn't see them once you left my place until now.

BTW, I'm looking forward to Thursday. See you then. 8)

#7 Tue October 10, 2006 4:46am

JR Horsley

JimmyC its walnut with some of the sap wood still on it.

JimQ Thanks for the info I didn't know that, all my passwords at work are in caps so i forget to turn it off some times.

and guys thanks for the tips I'll have to try them soon i'm making a hand bell ornament from spalted persimmon.

and RevDoug is a very good teacher I have found him to be a well of turning knowledge.

#8 Tue October 10, 2006 1:35pm