Tazmanian Rose Myrtle Burl NE bowl

Newest NE burl bowl. 2 1/2" tall x 3" diameter, 1/16" wall thickness. 3 coats of Deft semi-gloss lacquer.

Photo Details

Chris Wright

Registered: November 2004
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,684

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Date: Mon November 21, 2005
Views: 1,060
Keywords: tazmanian rose myrtle burl ne bowl

Comments

nappen

I like these bowls your turning recently, esp this one. Very intricate and fragile looking, but kind of rought and masculine at the same time. very well done.

#1 Mon November 21, 2005 11:52am

jprosise

Nice bowl! Do you use the spray Deft or the brushable version?

#2 Mon November 21, 2005 4:26pm

Rev. Doug Miller

Rev. Doug Miller

Very nice. These are some hairy looking pieces. Look like they're about to blow up just sitting there. I bet the pucker factor was pretty high on those last cuts, huh? Looking good, pal. 8)

#3 Mon November 21, 2005 4:55pm

Chris Wright

Thansk Ned, that is the look I was going for, to me a good natural edge should have both feminine and masculine aspects otherwise it appears to be off.

JP, I used the spray on these and cut back with 600 (wet sanding) in between the coats. Now I remember why I don't like lacquer...too much work! Wink

Rev - They do get pretty hairy at some points, but to be honest I doesn't really stress me too much anymore. I have my new grinds down for my tools and have been using them alot lately so I feel amazingly comfortable with them. It's gotten to the point now where I almost want to see how close to explosion I can get without actually blowing the piece up (hence the first burl bowl). Wink

#4 Mon November 21, 2005 6:34pm

Gil

This is a very ruggedly beautiful piece, Chris. I like the jagged outline; must be interesting to turn.

#5 Mon November 21, 2005 8:06pm

nappen

Any pics of the new grind in the gallery?

#6 Mon November 21, 2005 9:49pm

Chris Wright

I can probably shoot some for you Ned. It's easy enough to do though. Set the grinder rest so the nose of the gouge comes out at 40 degrees, then follow the shape of the flute to get your round nose. You need to roll the gouge slightly while following the round of the flute to get the wings. One thing Stu taught me is to flip the spindle gouge over and let the cutting area rest on the wheel for a second, this will take off the edge and put a flat on the top showing you the exact round of the flute where the edge goes. Follow that guide while grinding and it will give you the most natural and correct nose for that particular spindle gouge.

#7 Tue November 22, 2005 3:10am